Anais do Encontro Nacional de Pesquisa em Segurança Alimentar e Nutricional
Anais do VI Encontro Nacional de Pesquisa em Segurança Alimentar e Nutricional

Abstract

 

Presentation

Traditional food systems are disappearing rapidly in Brazil (Blay-Palmer et al., 2020). Partially in the coastal communities of Northeastern Brazil where mangroves have been central to the food system for thousands of years (Netto & Reis-Neto, 2023). Traditional communities in Brazil play a vital role in preserving the fauna, flora and cultural aspects involved in their food systems. One of the traditional communities recognized in the country are the "coastal extractivists", which includes “marisqueiras” (Brasil, 2023). Marisqueiras are women who harvest shellfish from the mangroves and play an important role in supporting their households through various activities related to these diverse ecosystems (Netto & Reis-Neto, 2023). Mangroves, being one of the most prolific ecosystems on the planet, are instrumental to biodiversity conservation, carbon sequestering and maintaining water quality (Carugati et al., 2018). In the last 20 years, mangroves have significantly deteriorated due to climate change and anthropogenic activities (Carugati et al., 2018), subsequently affecting the livelihoods and food systems of the coastal communities who rely on them.

To gain a deeper understanding of the interconnected nature of the traditional Northeastern coastal food system, three students with academic backgrounds in food security and nutrition undertook a five-day immersion in a marisqueira community in Itaporanga, Sergipe. The objective of this experience was to acquire local perspectives on the dynamics of this food system.

Objective

This report aims to present and reflect on the insights and experiences acquired during a five-day immersion in a traditional community near Itaporanga, Sergipe.

 

Description of experience

In June 2024, two students from the Federal University of Sergipe and one student from McGill University visited a village in the municipality of Itaporanga, in Sergipe, to gain insights into the dimensions of the local food system. This village is composed of mainly marisqueiras, fishermen, and their families who have lived here for generations,  and can therefore be understood as a traditional community. The students on this project come from an academic background in food security nutrition.

A central component of this experience was the students' visit to the region's mangroves. The visit was led by a local marisqueira who was willing to present the "mãe maré" (translating to “mother tide,” the local term for the mangrove ecosystem), the work of shellfish gatherers and fishermen, and the history of the village. Some of the knowledge imparted by the marisqueira from this experience is recorded in this work, along with observations and reflections that arose from the information shared and the discussions held.

 

Access to the mangrove and the history of the properties 

Arriving from the nearest village to the estuary of the mangrove takes around one hour by foot. However, throughout the day marisquerias travel long distances within the mangroves to reach different areas which contain various species. Currently, marisqueiras and fishermen must walk through a private property to access the mangrove, the land belongs to a local family, who allows marisqueiras and fishermen to pass through. This area used to be divided into several plots of land that belonged to the residents of her village, until members of this wealthy family negotiated the exchange of these properties for the small areas they now occupy, further away from the mangrove and closer to the highway leading to the city.

 

The mangrove ecosystem over time

The mangrove and its surroundings exhibit varying states of preservation. Some parts are well preserved with dense forests or narrow paths for marisqueiras, while areas on the private land are sparse, hosting only a few palm trees for cattle grazing. It was shared that over time, many local fruit species like cashew, mango, coconut, “licuri” and “inga” rapidly declined due to deforestation. Where some trees were deliberately cut down by the owner. His justification was that when the trees were laden with fruit, the neighborhood would pick them, supposedly in a “disorganized” or “careless” manner, damaging the tree and its fruit.

The waters of the mangrove are a mix of saline seawater and fresh water from rivers and streams, creating what is known as "brackish" water. The salinity of the water influences the particularities of the local fauna and flora, according to the local knowledge. Seafood observed included: aratus, guaiamum, sururus, crabs (sleepy crab and “gorés”), unha-de-velho (Tagelus plebeius), oysters and massunim. It was explained that recent years have seen changes, with the arrival of a new species of sururu, and the mass death massunins. The population believes the influx of fresh water from Bahia (from heavy rains) can be attributed to these changes. The marisqueiras have tried to adapt to this new reality, learning to harvest and sell the new species. They remain hopeful that the massunim will recover over time as the water composition rebalances.

Regarding species abundance, the marisqueira noted a significant reduction in all species, attributing it to population growth and therefore increased extraction to meet the demands of society and the market. The decline in shellfish populations has also impacted her family's diet. Recalling that seafood used to be more present in their diet, due to its abundance and the lack of alternatives since meat was too expensive. Previously, they could regularly enjoy shellfish together, but now with the species decline they have no choice but to sell most of what is gathered to earn income.

 

The trade of shellfish gatherers and fishermen

During the journey to and from the mangroves the students encountered two fishermen and a shellfish gatherer. Curious about the division of labor, they asked about gender roles. She explained that historically, tasks were divided based on strength or dexterity required, and perceived danger of the task. Much of the fishing takes place at night and requires considerable strength and endurance for handling the heavy loads and rowing, this task is primarily done by the men. Men also typically collect crabs due to the risk posed by their claws. Women on the other hand specialize in gathering sururus, massunim and oysters, tasks requiring deligence and patience to maintain the structure of the shellfish and ensure their own safety. The marisqueiras’ work is physically strenuous, carrying baskets, buckets and heavy cans, dragging large sacks through the muddy mangrove. The marisqueria explained this work has led to spinal issues for her. 

In addition to harvesting, each species requires specific preparation methods. For example, guaiamum, are typically captured using traps set in advance. Marisqueiras meticulously extract meat from the shells, using techniques that have been passed down for generations (from grandmother to mothers and onward). However, the younger generations are increasingly detached from these traditions, with fishing and shellfish gathering no longer being the primary source of income and livelihood. 

 

The community’s marisqueiras work mainly independently or in small groups of relatives and friends, without significant community leadership. The marisqueria reports that there are no formal associations or collectives in the community and there has never been political or social support for gathering and selling shellfish in her community. When asked about the distribution process, she explained that the community typically sells directly from their home, to local cooks, suppliers and on specific days, through a middleman who then takes the goods to nearby markets. Ultimately the shellfish distribution remains localized around the community. 

 

Commensality between shellfish gatherers and their families

Marisquerias spend long hours working in the mangroves, it is common to start early in the morning and return in late afternoon, timed around the tides which alter the needs of collection. Beyond the time spent gathering, a significant amount of time is needed to travel to, inbetween, and home from the gathering sites. As a result, many meals are consumed in the mangrove, it is typical for marisqueiras to bring food from home (rice, beans, cookies, crackers, and manioc flour), and gather it along the way from the surrounding environment (including mangos and coconut). Shady areas near the river have been adapted into communal places where marisqueiras separate the shellfish, prepare them for sale, and add them to their meals during the working day. Further these areas serve as a gathering spot for traditional leisure activities in the community, where families travel to the mangrove, collect together, and finally part of what is collected is prepared on the spot to be consumed as a group. This practice is called "assada". 

At home, leftover shellfish that doesn’t need to be sold are often prepared into special meals. For example, the shellfish collected in this experience was served the following day for a large family meal. The mother who hosted this meal (another marisqueira in the community) stressed the importance of meals like this being made together, and eaten together. The marisqueira emphasised the central role of “mother tide” in her culture and identity. 

 

The "Visages"

Accessing the mangrove isn't limited to a single route, many paths are traced throughout the woods and fields. Paths are chosen for their speed, shade or safety. It was reported that the mysteries of nature also influence these choices. It is popular knowledge in the community that some routes should not be taken alone or at certain times of day, because of the risk of being surprised or chased by a supernatural presence that can present through sound, movement of objects, the appearance of human or other animal forms are known as "visages". Visagens are believed to either aid or hinder the passage through different parts of the mangrove. Rooted in local culture rather than religion, these beliefs reflect the community's deep connection with these ecosystems.

 

Discussion

Direct engagement with the community revealed more complex realities than previously understood from existing literature. This experience provided invaluable insights into the social, environmental, and economic dynamics within this traditional food system, underscoring the importance of incorporating holistic and community perspectives in conversations of food systems (Wentworth et al., 2024).

Mangroves are among the most important ecosystems for conserving biodiversity, filtering pollutants, and sequestering carbon, however they are among the most threatened due to their susceptibility to commercial exploitation, pollution, and indirect impacts from climate change (Netto & Reis-Neto, 2023). In the mangroves of Northeastern Brazil, declines in biomass production, carbon storage capacity, and increased susceptibility to environmental shocks have all contributed to a reduction in biodiversity (Lacerda et al., 2021). This finding is reinforced  by the lived experience of the marisqueiras of this community. Environmental degradation in these communities subsequently impacts their socio-economic health, as their social cohesion is directly related to the health of their physical environment (Netto & Reis-Neto, 2023). 

These social bonds extend from the harvest of the shellfish to the consumption. During the five day immersion, every meal was shared with family, with extended family playing  a crucial role in both daily life and the food environment. The practice of family eating has been associated with a number of health and nutritional benefits, including: improved dietary diversity, improved mental well-being, and lower rates of food insecurity (do Amaral e Melo et al., 2020; Utter et al., 2019). The practice of commensality, reflected in family meals, embodies the sense of community that have been observed in reported in these communities (Associação Quilombola Brejão dos Negros, 2023). This practice serves as a space where traditional values, knowledge and stories are passed down between generations, strengthening the sense of belonging (Vieira, 2020). 

Social capital, defined by Kansanga et al., 2020 is the “benefit that society derives from the interaction between different networks and groups.” Social capital is known for its role in enhancing food security through facilitating synergies among community members throughout every stage of the food system (Nosratabadi et al., 2020). Nosratabadi and colleagues suggest food security and social capital are linked through two primary channels: knowledge sharing and product sharing. Social networks enhance community members' resilience and reduce vulnerability to shocks (environmental, economic etc.) consequently increasing the stability of the food system. Despite the strong social connections within these communities, the social capital often suffers at the level of community and institutional relations (Rodin, 2021). Where marisqueiras and their food systems are often lacking support from the public policies that dictate the projectory of their food system (Associação Quilombola Brejão dos Negros, 2023). This occurs at different levels, like chronic pain, that have already been associated with the craft of marisqueiras, yet not been effectively addressed by public authorities (Silva, 2021). The same is true of threats to the environment and to marisqueiras' homes, due to issues such as real estate speculation, privatization of large plots of land, and the construction of shrimp ponds (Associação Quilombola Brejão dos Negros, 2023). All of these factors are impacting the transfer of traditional knowledge to the younger generations as socio-environmental conditions are under threat. (Pilgrim-Morrison & Pretty, 2021).

 

Final considerations

Reflections from this field experience emphasize the importance of collaborative and community-centred perspectives in food systems research, recognizing the intricate social, environmental, and economic dynamics that sustain traditional food systems. Future initiatives concerning conservation, land rights, and labor rights must recognize and involve these communities, ensuring their voices shape the decisions that affect their lives and environments. 

 

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