Anais do Congresso Paranaense de Microbiologia
IV Congress of Microbiology in Paraná

The demand for cosmetic formulations with safe, non-toxic ingredients and with proven efficacy has been growing rapidly in recent years. Brazil is considered the fourth largest consumer of cosmetic products in the world, and among these products stands out lipstick, an essential product for lip care. For greater consumer acceptance, a formulation with multifunctional properties is needed, in addition to a good appearance, pleasant taste, ideal texture, good stability, and that is capable of promoting lip hydration, preventing the lips from becoming dry and chapped. A biotechnological ingredient with great application potential is sophorolipids, a microbial biosurfactant that can be obtained by microbial fermentation by Candida bombicola, this metabolite has important biological properties and of great industrial interest, such as moisturizing effect, antimicrobial and antioxidant activity that are desirable for incorporation into multifunctional cosmetic products. Thus, the study aimed to produce and characterize a lipstick formulation with the addition of C. bombicola sophorolipids. The production of sophorolipids was carried out in a fermentation medium containing (g\L): glucose 100, avocado oil 100, yeast extract 2.5, potassium phosphate monobasic 0.5 and magnesium sulfate 0.5. Culture interruption was performed by centrifugation and the sophorolipids were extracted using ethyl acetate (1:1), rotaevaporated, and submitted to another extraction process with methanol water 4:1 (v\v) and hexane 1:1 (v \v). After drying, the sophorolipids were subjected to three extractions with ethyl acetate and water (3:1) lyophilized for the development of lipsticks. Two lipstick formulations were prepared: base formulation (FB) and formulation with sophorolipids (FS) by the phase inversion emulsification method and after incorporation of the ingredients, the lipsticks were filled in the respective molds and stored to be characterized. FB and FS were evaluated by organoleptic tests (appearance, color and odor), determination of pH, density and spreadability. The production of sophorolipids using glucose and avocado oil was 71.83 g\L, with a yield of 51.97% and with a biomass production of 5.98 g\L in 240 h of fermentation. The formulation with sophorolipids (FS) presented organoleptic parameters with no change in appearance, white color and no characteristic odor. The pH value was equal to 6, compatible with the labial pH, the density was 0.9828 (g/cm³) and the spreadability 201.0 mm². Therefore, this study presents an innovative potential, where sophorolipids can be used for the development of a multifunctional and sustainable cosmetic, adding value and improving the properties of the cosmetic product developed.